Choly Knight

Sew Desu Ne?


Free Pattern Friday! T-Rex Plush

Hi everyone!
Finally got to make this highly requested pattern! Dinosaurs are always such a hit with kids so I hope this one is also well loved ❤ This cute T-Rex has classic stubby little arms as well as a large head. It sits well on its own thanks to its big tail. But my favorite part by far has to be his goofy grin!

I had wanted to try giving a plush these cheeky eyes for the longest time and this t-rex was the perfect chance to show them off 😀
The plush has some darts, curved sewing, and tiny pieces, but ultimately nothing too out there compared to others. Though the teeth are done in one large double-ended dart across the head which might seem unusual. Overall I rated it a 3/10.

The original pattern comes with applique templates for both sets of eyes, but there are embroidery files as well! They are able to fit on 4” x 4” machines when the design goes across the diagonal, so be sure to look out for that in the files and the instructions.

Would you like to see how I designed this pattern? You can support me on Patreon for as little as $1 and get behind-the-scenes details!

This tutorial is part of the #sewasoftie blog hop for all of July from and Check out the tutorial for the 6th from Tina @missdaisypatterns!


Free Pattern Friday! Hooded Cowl

Hi everybody!
With Halloween coming I couldn’t resist the urge to make something costume related, so while this isn’t a plush I hope you all might still enjoy it! It’s a cozy hooded cowl dressed up either like a dragon or a unicorn. Paired with a warm coat or a fuzzy sweater I think it would be the perfect thing to keep you cozy and cute while trick-or-treating.

It includes sizes from baby up to large adult so everyone in the family can have one! And if you’re not into the hooded cowl look, you can use the dragon or unicorn parts for a hoodie or scoodie or anything else with a hood! It’s hard not to love the look of those dragon spikes or the big blooming flowers around the unicorn horn.

The cowl on its own is pretty simple and would be great for someone new to sewing that hasn’t made a lot of clothes yet. It’s also a good way to practice sewing buttonholes. All of the dragon and unicorn details give it a little extra time and difficulty, so I rated it a 3/10.

I hope it might help some of you with your autumn sewing!


Pattern Hack! Night Fury Hoodie

Halloween is fast approaching! So I thought I might share this fast costume idea 😀 It’s an add-on of sorts to my cosplay hoodie pattern, but it works just as well with other hoodie patterns or even with a hoodie you might already own. It’s all the extras you need to make a Night Fury hoodie 🙂

The pattern comes with templates for head spikes, horns, back spikes, applique face templates, and wings as well as instructions for how to insert them into my hoodie pattern. It could even work for the shrug pattern from earlier this month! If you’ve got some sewing experience, it’s easy to see how these fit into an already purchased hoodie as well. Altogether you’ll have an awesome costume in no time!


Free Pattern Friday! Eevee Evolution Hooded Shrug

It’s less than a month now until Halloween! So if you haven’t started your costume ideas yet, now might be a good time to get cracking! And today I have a really simple pattern that makes a great fast costume for sewing newbies 😀 It’s a cute hooded shrug made up to look like, yes, all 9 current Eevee evolutions 🙂

Just like my previous zippered pouch pattern, I felt I couldn’t possibly introduce this pattern without creating all 9 versions, so no one’s favorite gets left out. The pattern is for a fun short jacket that pairs well with lots of casual outfits so it makes a quick and super cute costume. The sizes are for adults and range from XS up to 5XL.
You can usually pick your size based what size t-shirt you wear, but there’s a size chart in the pattern file as well. Since the jacket isn’t super fitted, there’s some leeway with what size you pick. So larger kids could likely get away with an XS.

If you haven’t made much clothes before, this pattern will be perfect for you! If you have knowledge of darts and hemming you’re in the clear. The only thing that might slow you down is all the little details that make the characters what they are. I hope you all like it!


Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Final Week!


WEEK 12: Quilting & binding
First off, congrats on making it this far! If you’ve been sewing along with me so far, that means you’ve made up an entire quilt top, and that’s no small feat! If you’ve still got some pep left in you, this week we’re finishing off the quilt with the layering, quilting, and finally binding.
This is the final week of the quilt, so that means the whole project is up and available 😀 So if you want to follow along as with the rest of the quilt-along, keep reading below, but now the whole quilt-along tutorial is compiled and ready to download if you’d prefer it like that:

Most quilt patterns stop here and tell you to ‘quilt and finish as desired,’ but I thought since I took you this far I might as well go to the end ^-^ There are loads of tutorials on how to quilt and bind your project, but here’s how I did mine in particular:

1. Gather up your supplies. Go back and gather some of your supplies as mentioned in Week 1 – you’ll need your batting and backing fabric. Hopefully your batting is at least 4-8 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides, and your backing maybe 6-10 inches larger. Since the quilt top is a little over 60” wide on each side, I had to piece together my quilt back from 40” wide fabric.

2. Layer and pin the pieces. Layer your quilt sections as shown; first the backing (wrong side up), then the batting, then the quilt top (right side up). Make sure every layer is centered over the other, completely smoothed out and free of wrinkles and creases. Then take safety pins and pin through all three layers of the quilt , spaced about 5-6” apart.

2. Quilt the layers. You can quilt your newly basted layers however you please, but this is how I tackled it! Since I was in a time crunch, I needed something simple to do that also followed the mermaid theme. I opted for a sort of swirling waves look, which I achieved by sewing freemotion waves over the quilt, with a spiral or two thrown in. This way I could move back and forth over the quilt, waving one way, then turning around and waving back. It’s that much easier since you can echo the previous line of stitching, then meander off and do some spirals, then come back.
I did this design over the whole of the quilt with slightly large spacing so I could finish faster.

3. Trim the layers. When the layers are all quilted, you can now trim off the excess batting and backing to leave three cleanly sewn layers behind. I find using a ruler against the edge of my quilt top, then cutting the excess with a rotary cutter gets a nice straight edge – but you can also use scissors.

4. Chain your binding strips. Onto the binding! For this quilt, I had a lot of leftover red and pink fabrics from the applique, so I opted to use the scraps to make the binding.
If you purchased whole cloth as shown in Week 1, you’ll want to cut the fabric into 2½” wide strips to make the finished ½” wide binding for the quilt. The total length of the strips need to equal about 256”, so unless you’re a wizard, we’ll have to patch those strips together to make this happen.
To avoid excess bulk, the binding strips are best joined with a bias seam as shown in the photo. You bring together two edges of the smaller strips at a 90 degree angle. Then sew a seam from outside corner to outside corner.

5. Trim & press the seams. Trim the excess fabric and press the seam open to get something like this! Repeat making bias seams with the rest of your strips to achieve one incredibly long strip.

6. Fold & press the strip. Take the strip to your iron and fold it in half lengthwise, making it even skinnier than before. Make sure the wrong sides are facing each other and the raw edges line up, then press along the whole length of the strip. Your binding is now ready to attach to your quilt!

7. Begin the binding. Take the raw edge of your strip and line it up with the raw edge of your quilt. I like to start in the bottom center. Leave about 6-12” of excess binding behind you before you start sewing. Using a ½” seam allowance, start sewing down the side of the quilt. Stop before you get to the corner – which we’ll tackle next!

8. Sew the corner. When you get to the corner, stop your needle when it’s ½” away from the edge. Pivot your work 45 degrees, then sew into the corner and off the edge as the stitching line on the photo shows.

9. Fold the corner. After sewing the corner, you need to fold the binding in a little special way to get the next side ready for sewing. First you fold the binding away from the quilt, along the 45 degree seam you sewed in the previous step. Then you fold the binding back against the next edge of the quilt. This should leave a little triangular flap at the corner. When sewing the next side, start from the top and backstitch over all those layers of fabric really well. Keep going down the side until you get to the next corner and repeat this step.

10. Reach the end. Sew the rest of the sides of the quilt, repeating step 8 for the corners, until you nearly reach the point where you started. Stop about 6-12” short, and leave about 6-12” of your binding hanging off. This will leave plenty of room and fabric for you to join your binding ends.

11. Trim the binding. Trim off an inch or two of your extra binding and unfold it – this will serve as a handy guide so you don’t have to fumble with your ruler. Place it on the open space on your quilt as shown and overlap the binding ends. Trim the binding so the overlapped ends match the width of your guide. We’ll be sewing those ends together next.

12. Join the ends. Take the free ends of your binding, unfold them, and align them like you did back in step 3. Sew them together along the diagonal as shown, then trim the seam allowances, press the seam open, and refold the binding.

13. Attach the remaining binding. After all that sewing, ironing, and refolding, the area where you joined the ends of your binding should look no different than the rest! Align it with the last edge of your quilt and sew it in place as before. When the binding is sewn all the way around the quilt, press the binding away from the quilt. Next up is to wrap it around to the back.

14. Fold the back of the binding. Wrap the binding around to the back of the quilt so the folded edge just covers the seam from steps 7-12, then press it in place. At the corners, the binding should be folded as the photo shows. Fold one side so the corner makes a diagonal, then bring the other side over to make a neat mitered corner.
With the binding all wrapped, you’re now free to either hand sew the binding in place, or sew it in place by machine. I prefer to use a narrowish zigzag (about 2mm wide and 1mm long), sewing over the seams made in step 7-12 from the front of the quilt. This should catch the folded edge on the other side of the quilt, but check periodically as you sew to be sure this is happening.

When that’s all complete, it means you’ve finished your quilt! I hope it gets as much love as mine did 😀

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 11


WEEK 11: Assembling the blocks
Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far then you finished all that crazy applique 😀 Definitely the most daunting part of the quilt. This week we’re going to assemble all of the pieces to create the quilt top, so gather up all the pieces you cut in Week 1 as well as the blocks you created in Weeks 2-10. Then assemble them as such!

1. Assemble the rows. Take blocks 1-3 and sew them together into a chain with (B) strips in between. Repeat with blocks 4-6 and 7-9. You should end up with three rows of three blocks each.

2. Join the rows. Take rows 1-3 and join them together with horizontal sashing strips (C) in between. This should leave you with one big square and all 9 of your blocks joined.

3. Add the vertical border strips. Next up is to take the (D) border strips and line them up along the right and left sides of your quilt top so far. Sew these together to complete one half of the border.

4. Add the horizontal border strips. The last step is to sew on the remaining, and longest, border strips (E). Sew these to the top and bottom edges of your quilt top so far, and this completes the entire quilt top! Congratulate yourself! 😀

That does it for this week, but next week we’re finishing up the quilt! It’s going to cover quilting and binding this bad boy. So I hope you’ll stop by next week to see it all completed!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 10


WEEK 10: Mermaid applique block #5
Today is the last block! So pat yourself on the back if you’ve made it this far! That’s a lot of applique to get through ♥
It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, cut the shapes, fuse to the background fabric, and finally sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re finally putting all the blocks together!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 9


WEEK 9: Seahorse applique block
This week we have the last sea creature to applique! We’re nearly done!
Today is this adorable little seahorse 😀 It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, cut the shapes, fuse to the background fabric, and finally sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re tackling the last mermaid!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 8


WEEK 8: Mermaid applique block #4
Today’s yet another mermaid! I loved drawing the extra details on this little girlie. Instead of the usual fish fin, I gave her a fin that’s more like a shark – and of course the braid is fun too 😀
It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, and cut the shapes. I would recommend fusing the cameo frame first (it needs to be shifted up a bit to accommodate the dangling ‘beads’), then fusing the dangly bits below afterwords, then the mermaid at last of course. Then as before, sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re back to a simpler shape – the last sea creature! 😀

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 7


WEEK 7: Fish applique block
Hello again! This week we have the third sea creature in our collection – this tropical fish! It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, cut the shapes, fuse to the background fabric, and finally sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square. That’s 6 out of 9 blocks down! Just three more to go and this baby can finally come together 😀
Next week we’re tackling another mermaid!