Choly Knight

Sew Desu Ne?


Free Embroidery Update! Calcifer, Shiba Cube, & Winter Plush Charms ♥

Hey everybody!
I don’t get as many requests to revisit older patterns anymore, but there were still a few lingering in my collection that people needed embroidery files for 🙂 So in between projects I found time to look back at these and make some embroidered alternatives!

• First is the Winter Plush Charms from 2017. Being just tiny charms they have especially small faces so I can see why they would be difficult to applique. Luckily it also means they fit into 4″ x 4″ hoops rather easily!

• Next is the Shiba Inu Cube Plush from 2016. This includes a 5″ x 7″ version that has an appliqued muzzle and also a 4″ x 4″ version without the muzzle ❤ The ears are also both embroidered and sewn in the hoop so it takes a little bit more of the work off your plate.

• And lastly is Calcifer from 2014 — wow, 6 years ago! Because this pattern was so much older, it actually lacked a lot of the extra photos and illustrations I usually put into my patterns. So I went ahead and completely revamped Calcifer 🙂 Also, his original size only made him able to fit into 5″ x 7″ embroidery hoops. So, much like my Bat or Owl patterns, I created a mini-size Calcifer so people with 4″ x 4″ hoops can make him too! The mini size is about 30% smaller than the original, but still sews up exactly the same.
So if you’re interested in updating your older files, you can find both the new pattern (with the mini size) and the embroidery below.

I hope you all enjoy these new additions and they stitch out well for you!


Free Embroidery Update! Holiday Style <3

Hey everybody!
I’m rounding up on updating the last of my store patterns with embroidery! With this batch I worked on, I felt that the embroidery was too simple or small to warrant making into paid files, so from now on they’ll be included for free in the pattern! For those who have already purchased the ones in question, they’re free right here!

Which ones are included? We’ve got:
• The Cerberus plush from September of 2017. It only needs one tiny face (stitched up 3 times) to make it (perfect for 4” x 4” hoops), so it’s now free!
• The Usagi Manjuu plush from May of 2014. It was tricky since the original eyes were right on the seams. But I adjusted the pattern so now the eyes can be embroidered on hoops 4” x 4” and above.
• The Mini Sushi pack from June of 2016. Several of the nigiri and the maki rolls now have embroidery (for hoops 4” x 4” and above), some of which are even sewn in the hoop!
• And finally the Robot from May of 2017. This one has several faces to choose from (for 5” x 7” hoops) as well as all of the fun gear designs and other motifs for the robot (for 4” x 4” hoops).
If you haven’t taken a look at these patterns before and are interested, they’ll be 30% off this weekend!

But for one last surprise there’s also a free pattern I’ve updated the embroidery for!
The Eeveelution blob plush from January of 2018! It was a big undertaking, but the embroidery includes faces for all 9 of the Eevee evolutions as well as some in-the-hoop files for the ears and tails. Some of the sewing templates had to be adjusted to fit the embroidery, since sometimes the applique was done over seams in the old pattern. Be sure to look out for the new sewing templates in the instructions!

I hope you all enjoy these new additions and they stitch out well for you! Hopefully this provides a nice start to the holiday season!


Free Embroidery Update! Halloween Style ♥

Hey everybody!
For Halloween I wanted to go back and make embroidery for some of my older free spooky patterns – particularly the ones that got the most requests. And to round out the group I created some Halloween versions of the Bat Plush as well! I wanted to make sure people with 4” x 4” embroidery hoops were included so I made adjustments in different ways to make it work.
Included are:

• The Witch Kitty from 2017 😀 This one has a diagonal face in order to fit in smaller hoops. And just for fun there are options to stitch stars all over the kitty’s cape and hat too!

The Sugar Skull Kitty from 2016! This one was too large to fit into a 5” x 7” or 4” x 4” hoop, so the pattern has been shrunk down about 30% (the new templates are included in the instructions). This way both the skull and rib cage can fit in a 5” x 7” hoop and just the skull can fit into a 4” x 4” hoop.

• And of course the Bat Plush is back! The original faces for this design could only fit in a 5” x 7” hoop, so to include smaller hoops I shrunk down the pattern about 20% for mini bats! The new templates are included in the embroidery instructions 😀 These bats are about 7” tall instead of the usual 9” and their faces and other details fit within a 4” x 4” hoop diagonally.
The original embroidery instructions and files are now updated to include 4” x 4” versions of the original faces and the new templates too ❤ But for this Halloween add-on you can also make a Pumpkin Jack-o-lantern bat or a Skeleton bat in both the standard and mini size! If you don’t have an embroidery machine, I also have the applique templates for the Halloween Bats here.

I hope you all enjoy these new additions and they stitch out well for you!


Update! More embroidery files!

Hey everybody!
I’ve gone back and revisited my most popular older patterns to create new embroidery files for them 🙂 I realize they’ve been in demand for quite some time, so I hope you’ll forgive me for taking so long!
I went with my most popular free patterns based on comments and number of downloads, and the pages are now updated to include the file pack.

The new additions are:
• The bat plush of course! Which now includes both a round-eyed face with nose and the lashed-eye face with mouth and fangs. Both faces need at least 5×7 hoops.
• The Totoro plush, which includes both the face and the belly markings — both of which need 5×7 hoops.
• The Haku dragon scarf, which also needs a 5×7 hoop.
• And the Night Fury plush, which includes both the face and the tail design. The face also needs a 5×7 hoop, but the tail design can fit on a 4×4 🙂

I’m slowly but surely working backwards to try and offer embroidery files for what’s in most demand ❤ I’ve had a lot of suggestions for the Owl Plush, Kitty Bean, and Witch Kitty, but please do let me know what you’d like to see in the comments!


Free Pattern Friday! Zippered Sketch Wallet


My boyfriend recently got a sketch wallet for himself — in leather no less — to hold just a few sketching essentials. Namely a Moleskine and a pencil and pen. Sometimes if the mood suits him he’ll throw in his ID and a few important credit cards so he can completely sustain himself on this wallet alone. Needless to say, I got super jealous and wanted one for myself. It gave me an opportunity try out installing a zipper in the cleanest way possible. This zipper is sewn right into the side seam of the wallet, sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining. There are no raw edges or seams to bind, so it makes for a clean finish even if it does take some coordination to put together 🙂

When it’s all done you have a wallet for sliding in a sketchbook on one side and pens and pencils on the other! I’m going to try carrying this around myself and see how it works out for me — hopefully I’ll start sketching more!



Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Final Week!


WEEK 12: Quilting & binding
First off, congrats on making it this far! If you’ve been sewing along with me so far, that means you’ve made up an entire quilt top, and that’s no small feat! If you’ve still got some pep left in you, this week we’re finishing off the quilt with the layering, quilting, and finally binding.
This is the final week of the quilt, so that means the whole project is up and available 😀 So if you want to follow along as with the rest of the quilt-along, keep reading below, but now the whole quilt-along tutorial is compiled and ready to download if you’d prefer it like that:

Most quilt patterns stop here and tell you to ‘quilt and finish as desired,’ but I thought since I took you this far I might as well go to the end ^-^ There are loads of tutorials on how to quilt and bind your project, but here’s how I did mine in particular:

1. Gather up your supplies. Go back and gather some of your supplies as mentioned in Week 1 – you’ll need your batting and backing fabric. Hopefully your batting is at least 4-8 inches larger than your quilt top on all sides, and your backing maybe 6-10 inches larger. Since the quilt top is a little over 60” wide on each side, I had to piece together my quilt back from 40” wide fabric.

2. Layer and pin the pieces. Layer your quilt sections as shown; first the backing (wrong side up), then the batting, then the quilt top (right side up). Make sure every layer is centered over the other, completely smoothed out and free of wrinkles and creases. Then take safety pins and pin through all three layers of the quilt , spaced about 5-6” apart.

2. Quilt the layers. You can quilt your newly basted layers however you please, but this is how I tackled it! Since I was in a time crunch, I needed something simple to do that also followed the mermaid theme. I opted for a sort of swirling waves look, which I achieved by sewing freemotion waves over the quilt, with a spiral or two thrown in. This way I could move back and forth over the quilt, waving one way, then turning around and waving back. It’s that much easier since you can echo the previous line of stitching, then meander off and do some spirals, then come back.
I did this design over the whole of the quilt with slightly large spacing so I could finish faster.

3. Trim the layers. When the layers are all quilted, you can now trim off the excess batting and backing to leave three cleanly sewn layers behind. I find using a ruler against the edge of my quilt top, then cutting the excess with a rotary cutter gets a nice straight edge – but you can also use scissors.

4. Chain your binding strips. Onto the binding! For this quilt, I had a lot of leftover red and pink fabrics from the applique, so I opted to use the scraps to make the binding.
If you purchased whole cloth as shown in Week 1, you’ll want to cut the fabric into 2½” wide strips to make the finished ½” wide binding for the quilt. The total length of the strips need to equal about 256”, so unless you’re a wizard, we’ll have to patch those strips together to make this happen.
To avoid excess bulk, the binding strips are best joined with a bias seam as shown in the photo. You bring together two edges of the smaller strips at a 90 degree angle. Then sew a seam from outside corner to outside corner.

5. Trim & press the seams. Trim the excess fabric and press the seam open to get something like this! Repeat making bias seams with the rest of your strips to achieve one incredibly long strip.

6. Fold & press the strip. Take the strip to your iron and fold it in half lengthwise, making it even skinnier than before. Make sure the wrong sides are facing each other and the raw edges line up, then press along the whole length of the strip. Your binding is now ready to attach to your quilt!

7. Begin the binding. Take the raw edge of your strip and line it up with the raw edge of your quilt. I like to start in the bottom center. Leave about 6-12” of excess binding behind you before you start sewing. Using a ½” seam allowance, start sewing down the side of the quilt. Stop before you get to the corner – which we’ll tackle next!

8. Sew the corner. When you get to the corner, stop your needle when it’s ½” away from the edge. Pivot your work 45 degrees, then sew into the corner and off the edge as the stitching line on the photo shows.

9. Fold the corner. After sewing the corner, you need to fold the binding in a little special way to get the next side ready for sewing. First you fold the binding away from the quilt, along the 45 degree seam you sewed in the previous step. Then you fold the binding back against the next edge of the quilt. This should leave a little triangular flap at the corner. When sewing the next side, start from the top and backstitch over all those layers of fabric really well. Keep going down the side until you get to the next corner and repeat this step.

10. Reach the end. Sew the rest of the sides of the quilt, repeating step 8 for the corners, until you nearly reach the point where you started. Stop about 6-12” short, and leave about 6-12” of your binding hanging off. This will leave plenty of room and fabric for you to join your binding ends.

11. Trim the binding. Trim off an inch or two of your extra binding and unfold it – this will serve as a handy guide so you don’t have to fumble with your ruler. Place it on the open space on your quilt as shown and overlap the binding ends. Trim the binding so the overlapped ends match the width of your guide. We’ll be sewing those ends together next.

12. Join the ends. Take the free ends of your binding, unfold them, and align them like you did back in step 3. Sew them together along the diagonal as shown, then trim the seam allowances, press the seam open, and refold the binding.

13. Attach the remaining binding. After all that sewing, ironing, and refolding, the area where you joined the ends of your binding should look no different than the rest! Align it with the last edge of your quilt and sew it in place as before. When the binding is sewn all the way around the quilt, press the binding away from the quilt. Next up is to wrap it around to the back.

14. Fold the back of the binding. Wrap the binding around to the back of the quilt so the folded edge just covers the seam from steps 7-12, then press it in place. At the corners, the binding should be folded as the photo shows. Fold one side so the corner makes a diagonal, then bring the other side over to make a neat mitered corner.
With the binding all wrapped, you’re now free to either hand sew the binding in place, or sew it in place by machine. I prefer to use a narrowish zigzag (about 2mm wide and 1mm long), sewing over the seams made in step 7-12 from the front of the quilt. This should catch the folded edge on the other side of the quilt, but check periodically as you sew to be sure this is happening.

When that’s all complete, it means you’ve finished your quilt! I hope it gets as much love as mine did 😀

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 11


WEEK 11: Assembling the blocks
Congratulations! If you’ve made it this far then you finished all that crazy applique 😀 Definitely the most daunting part of the quilt. This week we’re going to assemble all of the pieces to create the quilt top, so gather up all the pieces you cut in Week 1 as well as the blocks you created in Weeks 2-10. Then assemble them as such!

1. Assemble the rows. Take blocks 1-3 and sew them together into a chain with (B) strips in between. Repeat with blocks 4-6 and 7-9. You should end up with three rows of three blocks each.

2. Join the rows. Take rows 1-3 and join them together with horizontal sashing strips (C) in between. This should leave you with one big square and all 9 of your blocks joined.

3. Add the vertical border strips. Next up is to take the (D) border strips and line them up along the right and left sides of your quilt top so far. Sew these together to complete one half of the border.

4. Add the horizontal border strips. The last step is to sew on the remaining, and longest, border strips (E). Sew these to the top and bottom edges of your quilt top so far, and this completes the entire quilt top! Congratulate yourself! 😀

That does it for this week, but next week we’re finishing up the quilt! It’s going to cover quilting and binding this bad boy. So I hope you’ll stop by next week to see it all completed!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 10


WEEK 10: Mermaid applique block #5
Today is the last block! So pat yourself on the back if you’ve made it this far! That’s a lot of applique to get through ♥
It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, cut the shapes, fuse to the background fabric, and finally sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re finally putting all the blocks together!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 9


WEEK 9: Seahorse applique block
This week we have the last sea creature to applique! We’re nearly done!
Today is this adorable little seahorse 😀 It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, cut the shapes, fuse to the background fabric, and finally sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re tackling the last mermaid!

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Mermaid Quilt Quilt-along! Week 8


WEEK 8: Mermaid applique block #4
Today’s yet another mermaid! I loved drawing the extra details on this little girlie. Instead of the usual fish fin, I gave her a fin that’s more like a shark – and of course the braid is fun too 😀
It’s put together just like the first applique week: print the pattern, trace the outlines, fuse to the fabric, and cut the shapes. I would recommend fusing the cameo frame first (it needs to be shifted up a bit to accommodate the dangling ‘beads’), then fusing the dangly bits below afterwords, then the mermaid at last of course. Then as before, sew around the edges.

When you’re done, it should look something like this! Once again, give it a good press the remeasure the block to make sure it’s still 15½” square.
Next week we’re back to a simpler shape – the last sea creature! 😀