Where do you get your fabrics and materials?
Lots of places! So let me break it down for you:


United States Resources:

Sadly, as of spring 2025, Joann Fabrics is in the process of shutting down πŸ˜“ They were an amazing resource for those starting out who needed a place to see and feel fabric before buying. They will be sorely missed. In light of that, I hope to share as many resources as I can now and in the future!

β—Ύ Howl Fabrics is an independent brand offering minky and faux fur. They don’t have a free shipping option, but their selection is very extensive.

  • Minky cuddle solid is their selection of Shannon brand minky. This is often considered one of the better brands of minky. They have nearly every color in the Shannon catalog as well as their own colors (labeled “HF” in the name). They offer smaller quantities of swatches, fat quarters, half yards so you don’t have to commit to a lot.
  • Teddy & bunny fur is their vast array of medium-pile (about 1″ long) faux fur. It does not stretch so it’s more suited to costumes and fur suits. But it could also be used for classic teddy bear style plush.
  • Luxury shag fur is their vast array of long-pile (about 1Β½” long) faux fur. It does not stretch so it’s more suited to costumes and fur suits. But it could also be used for larger plush or doll hair.

β—Ύ Cali Quilt Co. has both an independent site and a shop on Etsy. They carry many colors of smooth minky and luxe cuddle. They offer free shipping with larger orders.

  • Smooth minky has nearly all of the colors from the Shannon catalog. There’s a lot to choose from, so it might help to pick a color from the Shannon catalog and search for that name. They offer smaller cuts like fat quarters and half yards so you don’t have to commit to much.
  • Plush minky shows the luxe cuddle collection from Shannon. These have a longer pile (usually 10mm or so). There’s a lot to choose from, so it might help to pick a color from the Shannon catalog and search for that name. They offer smaller cuts like fat quarters and half yards so you don’t have to commit to much.

β—Ύ Missouri Quilt Co. is a quilt shop that offers a nice selection of smooth minky and luxe cuddle.

  • Cuddle solids shows their selection of mostly Shannon brand solid smooth minky.
  • Luxe cuddle shows their selection of Luxe Cuddle Shannon fabrics.

β—Ύ Big Z Fabrics offers a selection of their own brand of minky at lower prices.
They’re slightly lower quality than Shannon and offer fewer colors, but they’re still a solid option. Big Z is unique because they offer their own version of mochi minky, which is a thinner 4-way stretch minky popular for extra-squishy plush like Squishmallows. They also have fleece and a wide variety of faux fur.

β—Ύ Fabric Empire offers a selection of fleece and minky at lower prices.
These are their own brand, so they’re slightly lower quality and fewer colors to choose, but still a solid option.

β—Ύ Fat Quarter Shop offers mostly quilting cotton, but are growing in their selection of minky.
This shop is great if you like keeping up with the latest collections from fabric designers. While I don’t usually use quilting cotton in the body of my plush, it’s helpful for pouch and backpack pockets. It’s good to know that many quilt shops are starting to carry minky and cuddle fabrics because they make great baby blankets!

β—Ύ Spoonflower: This service offers custom-printed fabric. I use it to make custom designs for minky, fleece, and cotton.
You can create your own design or choose your own from their marketplace of designs submitted by others. The price can be a little high compared to solid fabric, but they do sometimes have sales and coupons to help soften the blow. The main issue with the fabric (and many custom-printed fabrics) is that the ink from the printer does not penetrate through the entirety of the fur. So the base of the fur still shows up white — especially in dark fabrics. One workaround is to use lighter colors, but also to opt for textural designs, especially ones with flecks of light colors. For example galaxy prints help you get away with the drawbacks of the fabric.

β—Ύ Wawak.com: offers a fantastic range of sewing notions.
I use them for thread, scissors, interfacing, seam rippers, etc.

β—Ύ Hancock’s of Paducah: has an extensive array of quilting cottons at amazing prices.
While I don’t usually use quilting cotton for the body of my plush, this fabric does come in handy for pouch linings in backpacks and bags. Hancock’s product filter is fantastic and they have a huge clearance selection that’s fun to browse through.

β—Ύ Zipperstop: has every color of zipper and ribbon under the sun.
Zippers come in handy for plush backpacks and pouches, and Zipperstop has a huge selection of colors and lengths so you can get exactly what you need.

β—Ύ The Felt Pod: has fun options for wool felt.
I don’t usually use felt for the body of my plush, but it does come in handy for some details. I prefer using 100% wool felt or a wool blend, and The Felt Pod has a fantastic collection of these in loads of colors.

International Resources:
I haven’t personally shopped with any of these international sellers, but I’ve heard good things from other sewists. So these weren’t found based on a simple Google search. Please do let me know if you have any others to recommend!

CanadaFunky Monkey Fabrics

UK/EuropeRooftop Fabrics

Germany/EuropeStoffhummel

AustraliaMinky n More

What sewing machine do you use? Any recommendations?
I currently use a Husqvarna Viking Emerald 116. I’ve had it for over 20 years now and it still works very well despite what I put it through! It’s a mechanical machine that only does the basics, but it does them very well. I also have a Heavy Duty Singer machine that I use as a backup.
I personally got the Singer so I could test it as a good beginner machine, it has worked out well for me so I would definitely recommend it to others.
But if you’re able to do a more thorough search and go to a dealer to try different machines, you’ll have something that will be better suited to exactly what you need.

What embroidery machine do you use? Any recommendations?
I currently use a Husqvarna Viking Topaz 50 for my embroidery machine. I’ve had it for over 6 years now and has heartily put up with everything I do to it, haha! As far as price, it’s a bit in the mid to high-range and ran me about $2000 refurbished. So I would not recommend it for someone just starting out and wants to spend less.
I have also used a Singer Futura in the past, which had a good handful of problems. It didn’t completely prevent me from embroidering, but I don’t believe it’s a brand I would return to.
For a beginner, the Brother brand has been gaining traction as a reliable budget brand. I personally have a mid-range Brother Innovis NQ1600E I use as a backup. But beginner models like the SE600 or SE1900 get good reviews in general and from other embroiderers. Ideally, you should purchase a machine that has an embroidery hoop suited to the projects you’ll be making. In the case of plush toys, the minimum 4″ x 4″ will still work, but may limit you with many designs. A 5″ x 7″ hoop will give you much more freedom by comparison.

What embroidery software do you use? Any recommendations?
I currently use a program called Hatch by Wilcom. It’s in the mid to upper range as far as price, so it has a few more robust features as well as fewer bugs. Keep in mind, this is a digitizing program, so it allows you to create entirely new embroidery designs from scratch. Programs that just have editing capabilities (such as resizing, rotating, etc.) are much less expensive and often come for free with your embroidery machine.
As far as digitizing programs for beginners, I would recommend a program like Embird or Stitch Era Universal. Both of these offer free trials so you can get a feel for the program before you buy.
As for simple editing programs, there is a free program I have personally tried for testing purposes, called MyEditor. This program will allow you to make simple edits to existing embroidery, including combining files (really helpful if you want to build custom faces from separate eyes, noses, mouths, etc.).

34 thoughts on “FAQ – Fabric Suppliers and Tools”

  1. Lauren Parajecki

    I love CaliQuiltCo! I bought some super fluffy faux fur minky from them for a plush and the fabric is super soft and high quality. I highly reccomend them if you live in the US a d would want to get fabric relatively quickly. The fabric is amazing in color and texture, check them out and try it on a smaller size plush if you buy their faux fur minky fabric. If you do buy that kind of fabric, be careful as the fur will get everywhere when you cut it

  2. I’m from Australia, and I buy minky fleece from a brand called Minky n More.
    They’re an Australian brand, which is amazing, and while they have a smaller range than Shannon fabrics, they are continually expanding it.
    They primarily sell smooth minky in a variety of colours, and dot minky in a few less colour, but also have a collection of printed and embossed fabrics and quilt panels, as well as selling labels and tags, and offcut bundles (amazing for plushies).
    They are a family run business, customer service is great, and their fabrics are cheaper than Shannon minky here in Australia. Minky n More is about $13/m, while Shannon fabrics are about $20/m.

  3. I bought some great plush at Royal Look a Dutch online shop in the Netherlands. But also on Aliepress you can find great fabric voor plush animals

  4. coralinascreations

    Funky monkey is hands down the best minky I’ve found in my search for nice minky. It’s super soft and easy to use (imo) so I definitely recommend for Canadian buyers.

  5. Hey! It’s me again, I wanted to ask a quick question that I have always wondered and I thought you of all people might know, how are plushies mass produced? Like, do people hand-sew each one? or do machines do it?

    1. For the most part, the process of sewing and stuffing still isn’t something that can be automated. So humans sew most of the item and it’s the really basic steps that are turned over to machines. Cutting fabric is one example — the pieces are usually punch cut out of several layers of fabric. Embroidery is of course done by machine too. But actually assembling the tiny pieces and stuffing the piece is still done by humans — just with more heavy duty machines and in an assembly line style.
      I hope that clears things up!

  6. For people looking for a fabric supply in Germany – i can totally recommend stoffhummel.de. They used to sell their own minky fabric only, which is good quality as far as i can tell, but are also stocking up on Shannon Minky at the moment (currently they have around 40 different colours). Shipping to other countries inside the EU is affordable, unfortunately shipping to the US gets expensive quickly.

  7. Hi!
    I am excited to learn how to make plushies! I make lots of amigurumi but never learned how to sew.
    I was wondering what opinion you have of Brother AE1700, do you think would be suitable for plushies?
    I am an absolute beginner and I don’t want to spend a lot of money on a sewer machine.

    1. Hello! I haven’t personally used that make or model, but I know many other sewists have good opinions regarding the Brother brand 😊 If your machine has trouble sewing plush fabrics right away, consider using a needle for stretch fabrics or knits, since that’s a common issue that seems like the machine’s fault but is really just the needle. I hope that helps!

  8. I have made a few plushies. The patterns are amazing. The hardest time I have is cutting. I think Minky might be too fluffy for me. Joanns is my preferred local fabric supplier—is sew lush the best, easiest to work with fabric? Thanks.

    1. Hello! I haven’t used Sew Lush a lot, but I can confidently say it’s fluffier than minky and does like to shed a lot. It still makes great plush, but if you’re looking for something easier to work with, I usually recommend fleece 😊

  9. Hello πŸ˜€ I was wondering if perhaps you were using a machine to cut your patterns kind of like a cricut machine? With stretchy fabrics i find myself with uneven pieces sometimes and I thought it might help?

    1. Hello! I don’t personally have a cutting machine — just a pair of fabric scissors πŸ˜… If the stretchy fabric is giving you trouble, you could try cutting it in two layers or using a layer of scrap paper beneath for some stability 😊

    2. Thank you for this list. I would like to ask you to add what brands of thread you use for sewing and embroidery.

      My sewing thread keeps unraveling and snapping. The tension is not the problem as it does it when just unwinding to get some for ladder stitching and snaps when trying to ladderstitch.

      Thank you again for all you do.

      1. Oh wow, I’m so sorry it’s doing that to you! I personally use Gutermann or Coats and Clark for my basic sewing thread. And for embroidery I mostly use Sulky.
        That said, it is possible for thread to get too old and that can cause breakage, especially if you live in a drier climate. I hope that might help!

  10. Do you sell just the embroidered eyes? I don’t have an embroidery machine. Most of the eyes in your patterns can be replicated in felt but I would love patches for the facial features that on some.

    I’m using your koala pattern to make Quokkas! Can’t get the face quite puffy enough so can you add Quokka to your list of potential future patterns?

    1. Hello!
      Unfortunately at this time I don’t sell any embroidered eyes, but I’ll certainly keep it in mind for the future! And thank you as well for the quokka suggestion!

  11. Now that fabric.com is shut down, is there a place you recommend for getting minky in the USA? I found Howl fabrics but they charge a lot for shipping.

  12. Hi! Love this! I just wanted to ask, what fabric do you use most often for eyes/nose, details. I saw to reccomnded felt or cotten, but I wanted to know the specfic fabric!

  13. Hello, what would you recommend for materials to support stuff like wings or antenna? Like if you make a dragonite or charizard and wing is flat but you don’t want it sagging, what material would be best that would hold up against washing and other types of wear? Also, how well do pipe cleaners hold up against washing/etc? Do they always have to be those fluffy kinds, or can they be bare or the types with sparkly metallic looking things (since that may be all I have access to at the current moment)?

  14. Hello. I’m a beginner in sewing, though I have done several different sewing projects like a couple of fleece blankets, two fleece pillows, two sets of pot holders, handmade one-strap bags, two aprons, and a few pieces of clothing. I went to Joann Fabrics to get the rest of the sewing tool essentials that I needed to learn and practice making plushies. But I didn’t pick any of the chosen fabrics because I didn’t think it through about what kind of plush toy I should make. I also don’t know how many yards of the fabric I should get and I don’t know how big the exact plush I’ll make is supposed to be. How much fabric in yards should I get for making the plush? And what is the size of the plush toy that I’m sewing?

    1. Hello! All of my patterns list the amount of fabric needed as well as the size of the finished plush 😊 On average, my free patterns require about 1/4 yd. to 1/3 yd. and are typically about 6″-10″ tall. So if you had a specific pattern in mind I could give you more information.
      But if you’re a beginner I would definitely recommend my Starter Pack plush: https://cholyknight.com/2022/01/14/starter-pack-plush/
      It’s a very simple design that teaches the basics of plush sewing. It uses 1/4 yd. of fabric for a plush that’s about 6″ tall.

      1. Hello again. I have a question: one of the fabrics, the fleece fabric, would blizzard fleece fabric be okay for sewing a plush? I read on the list of Tools and fabric materials that Anti-pill plush varieties give a smooth texture, though the blizzard fleece does have that, too. I’m just concerned about if I picked a qualified fabric material for it.

      2. Hello. Blizzard fabric would be just fine 😊 Both are quality fleece, it’s just that the anti-pill won’t pill over time. Pilling is when a fabric gradually builds up those tiny balls of fluff that stick to the surface, usually from friction. It’s happens faster with garments because of usual wear and tear, but it will gradually happen with a plush too if it’s handled a lot. But you can use a fabric shaver or pick them off to keep the plush looking new.

  15. After being sad about Joann’s closing and being disappointed Hobby Lobby only has like 10 colors of minky, I was able to see this a few weeks ago. This has been so helpful!

  16. For embroidery, Inkscape (open source scaleable vector graphics program) has a free plugin called Inkstitch that can create and save embroidery files. I’ve been using it for custom stuff since I started embroidering.

    As for sewing machines, I’ve got the Brother SE400. It’s been good because it can do both sewing and embroidery (4″x4″ hoop can feel small but it can do most things), and I’ve had it for almost a decade at this point and it’s still going strong.

  17. I hope I’m not double-commenting, but I can’t seem to find where I (thought I) commented this a few days ago. I’m planning to get one of your cut-and-sew patterns on Spoonflower, but in the preview when I set it to “fat quarter” it shows a slice of the right edge of the pattern being cut off. Do you know if this is a glitch with the preview on their website, and in fact a fat quarter includes everything, or should I order two fat quarters (no idea if they are usually continuous and connected though…). Thank you!

    1. Hello! If the design is being cut off, it could be due to the fabric 😊 The design works best in fleece or minky, which is a wider fabric at about 55 inches. Fabrics like cotton are narrower, at about 42 inches so they’ll cut off the design. I hope that helps!

  18. Hey, this is almost embarassing, but I normally have more fun handsewing than using a mashine. Do you think that technically I could do that (I have the Totoro bag in mind), or is that impossible? I am willing to suffer haha, just not willing to find out it won’t work at all. Thank youu

    1. Hello, making the project by hand is definitely possible, but a little harder with something like a bag πŸ˜… If you’re using thicker fabric it will be harder on your fingers so a thick needle and sturdy thimble will be helpful if you have them. But aside from that, there shouldn’t be any technique you can’t do πŸ’—

Leave a Reply to Lindsey MeynCancel reply